Who can resist the delightful aroma and flavor of coffee?
After returning to the Philippines following a fulfilling class fieldwork experience in Vietnam, I was inspired to reach out to a notable private organization deeply committed to the advancement and enrichment of the Philippine coffee industry - Philippine Coffee Board, Inc. (PCBI). PCBI plays a pivotal role in providing technical support, educational training, conducting research, hosting seminars, and a range of other activities dedicated to enhancing coffee farming practices, efficient farm and nursery management, and various related aspects. Beyond this, their dynamic involvement extends to bolstering the local coffee industry's growth and sustainability, both domestically and on the international stage.
PCBI Coffee Farm Tour Schedule and Cost
For a personalized experience, you can reserve a private tour with PCBI, requiring a minimum of six participants. This exclusive tour spans a duration of 3 to 4 hours, essentially half a day. The tour fee amounts to 500 pesos (approximately 8.50 EUR) per person, encompassing not only delectable snacks but also a comprehensive educational journey covering every aspect from the coffee nursery to the coffee bean processing. To ensure your comfort and convenience, it is advisable to arrive with your own vehicle and prepare suitable clothing for the occasion. Do not forget to bring along an umbrella and water for a truly immersive experience. Prior to your visit, here is the farm schedule we received to give you an idea of what to expect.
Quick Tour at the ECHOfarms
On the 7th of October 2023, my friend and I embarked on a captivating journey from bustling Manila to the picturesque province of Cavite, nestled just 1.5 hours away. Our route included the Metro Manila Skyway and CAVITEX, ensuring a swift and efficient trip to our destination. As we drew nearer to the farm, the verdant expanse of the province unfolded before our eyes, offering a delightful preview of what lay ahead. By approximately 8:30 in the morning, we had arrived at ECHOfarms, where we were warmly welcomed by Mr. Yasser Elardo. Yaser, not only the Information System Officer of PCBI but also the coffee farm's supervisor and tour guide, introduced us to the captivating world of coffee.
Before delving into the coffee farm itself, Yaser provided an insightful overview of the organization. He shared valuable insights into the diverse coffee varieties cultivated in Cavite and other regions of the Philippines. Over a cup of freshly brewed coffee and a delightful cookie, he skillfully walked us through the intricacies of the coffee-making process.
Our tour commenced with a visit to the coffee sorting and storage area. In this space, we encountered the coffee sorting machines, each designed to segregate beans based on their size. It's worth noting that Arabica, Robusta, and Liberica coffee beans vary in sizes, with Liberica beans typically larger than their counterparts. The warehouse housed three sorting machines, one for each coffee species. Yaser also shed light on the distinct methods of coffee bean processing and introduced us to a device used to assess the moisture content. Maintaining the correct moisture level is essential for ensuring the high-quality taste of the coffee.
Interestingly, PCBI serves as a hub for coffee farmers from various regions in the Philippines who seek to sell their coffee beans in the hope of fetching a better price. Within the warehouse, we spotted coffee beans from Benguet, a renowned northern province celebrated for its "Benguet Arabica." Inspired by this journey, we are eagerly planning our return to the Philippines, with the Cordillera highlands on our radar, where we look forward to exploring and discovering more about the local coffee varieties cultivated in that region.
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The coffee sorting machines (left). A dedicated local coffee sorter of PCBI (right).
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At ECHOfarms, the art of coffee extends beyond cultivation; they also undertake the intricate processes of roasting and meticulous hand sorting of coffee beans. During our visit, we had the privilege of meeting some of the local women who contribute part-time to the farm. Yaser shared that these dedicated individuals graciously offer their time whenever they can spare it, often managing to process up to three sacks of coffee beans in a single day.
Yaser's expertise shone as he demonstrated the fine art of selecting coffee beans, highlighting the qualities that command higher prices in the market. Beans marred by imperfections, like holes or defects, are swiftly discarded, as such flaws can significantly impact the quality of specialty coffee. Additionally, the team at ECHOfarms carefully segregates peaberries, those delightful pea-shaped coffee beans. These gems are prized for their rarity and limited quantity, as Yaser explained that peaberries develop when only one of the two seeds of the coffee fruit is fertilized. What's particularly fascinating is that peaberries undergo a unique roasting experience. Their spherical shape allows for more even roasting compared to their flat counterparts, resulting in a distinctive flavor profile that sets them apart from normal beans. This insight into the world of coffee bean selection and the value of peaberries added a deeper layer to our appreciation of the intricate craft of coffee cultivation.
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| Manual sorting of coffee beans (left). Peaberry coffee bean which can be sold at a higher price (right). |
PCBI Coffee Farm Tour
Following our enlightening tour of ECHOfarms, we embarked on a short 15-20 minute journey to the coffee farm, eager to explore the next chapter of our coffee adventure. As we stepped onto the property, we were met with the warm and enthusiastic welcome of the resident dogs, setting the tone for our visit. Yaser, our knowledgeable guide, wasted no time introducing us to the gracious lady caretaker, a key figure in the care and nurturing of the farm. With their guidance, we soon found ourselves in the midst of the Coffea liberica plants, where our journey into the world of coffee continued to unfold.
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| Coffea liberica nursery of the PCBI coffe farm. |
Yaser explained their cultivation of liberica plants, which begins from seeds. These plants are nurtured until they reach a height of 2-3 feet or have developed 6-8 pairs of leaves before they are ready for transplantation into the soil. Unlike many other coffee varieties, liberica plants display remarkable resilience against drought. During our conversation, I inquired about their susceptibility to coffee rust to confirm information from my previous studies. Yaser informed me that, regrettably, liberica plants are still vulnerable to coffee rust, especially during their early stages. During our visit, we also observed some plants that had been isolated due to ongoing disease concerns, preventing them from being transplanted at that time. Yaser also highlighted the composting process, emphasizing their commitment to using organic methods for all the crops, without using any synthetic fertilizers or chemical products.
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| Compost pit for the organic fertilizers used in the farm (left). Coffee fruits from a liberica plant (right). |
Visiting the liberica plants in person left me truly awestruck. It marked my first encounter with an organic coffee farm intercropped with tropical plants like coconut trees and palms. Regrettably, our timing was not aligned with the harvest season, so most of the coffee beans remained unripe. Nonetheless, we were fortunate to spot a handful of 3 to 5 fully ripe coffee fruits, ready for harvest. The fascinating aspect of coffee plants is that they don't all ripen simultaneously, requiring farmers to visit daily for several weeks to identify and pick the ripest fruits. This stands in stark contrast to the hurried approach of mass-produced coffee, where even unripe, green fruits are often harvested.
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| Coffea liberica plants (left). Coffea liberica plant with ripe and unripe fruits (right). |
Challenges of Coffea liberica in Cavite province
Distinguishing itself from many other coffee plantations, this region faces the added challenge of being susceptible to natural disasters. Just recently, the nearby Taal Volcano erupted, casting a shadow of uncertainty over the coffee farms in both Cavite and Batangas. The volcanic ashfall blanketed the coffee plants, causing extensive damage and, in some cases, complete crop loss. Notably, removing the stubborn ash from the leaves proved to be a daunting task, as Yaser explained. In the face of this adversity, it's heartening to discover that some resilient coffee plants persevered, continuing to bear fruit even after the eruption. Their remarkable resilience stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the local coffee industry in the face of nature's unpredictability.
As Yaser shared with us, an interesting shift has been unfolding in the world of coffee farming. Some coffee growers have transitioned from cultivating liberica to focusing on the faster-selling arabica and robusta varieties, primarily driven by the demand for instant or 3-in-1 coffee in both local and international markets. Unlike their counterparts, liberica plants require more generous spacing due to their deep-rooted nature, making them less suitable for mass production.
The changing landscape of coffee farming in areas like Amadeo, which is gradually transforming into a more urbanized region, has led to the sale of farmlands previously dedicated to coffee cultivation. Unfortunately, this reduction in available land for coffee farming has contributed to a dwindling number of liberica farms in the province.
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| The beautiful landscape of the PCBI coffee farm. |
Yaser also noted that the cultivation of liberica plants has become a rarity in the province, with some farmers opting for intercropping with other varieties such as Excelsa. The unique characteristics of liberica, coupled with market competition and the encroachment of urbanization, have led to their gradual disappearance from the coffee landscape. While there is indeed a demand for liberica beans in the Philippines, the supply falls short, as many consumers continue to favor instant coffee options. The "kapeng barako," a well-known and beloved Philippine coffee, owes its strong flavor and aromatic qualities to the liberica beans originally grown in the province of Batangas. It has become a trademark of the country and a popular choice among Filipinos. However, with the availability of more affordable coffee beans such as robusta, arabica, and excelsa, coupled with land use change, the production of "barako" liberica has seen a gradual decline.
"Barako, scientifically known as Coffea Liberica, was always mixed during harvest with another variety, Excelsa. Farmers did not realize that the population of Barako trees was already dwindling. They also did not get better value for Liberica. So, they just mixed all coffee cherries together and sold it as one crop - coffee" - Juan and Mojica (BARAKO: The Big Bean Book)
On a positive note, organizations like PCBI, in collaboration with government bodies, are actively engaged in educating and training farmers on how to cultivate high-quality coffee beans. These efforts encompass proper planting, harvesting, processing, and sorting techniques, empowering farmers to command higher prices for their produce. Moreover, a glimmer of hope emerges as a province in the South has begun rekindling the cultivation of liberica beans, offering a ray of optimism for the continued presence of this unique coffee variety in the region.
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| A photo with Yaser after the coffee farm tour. |
Following our enriching farm tour, the husband of the caretaker treated us to a refreshing glass of cold coconut juice, freshly harvested from the farm. This experience left me with a mixture of emotions; as a Filipino, I felt both a sense of contentment and a touch of sadness upon learning about the current state of Kapeng Barako in the Philippines. Here's to hoping that in the years to come, more farmers will embrace the cultivation of this cherished traditional coffee, preserving its rich heritage and legacy.
If you like to book a private tour with PCBI, you can contact them via this e-mail: admin.pcbi@gmail.com. Visit an organic coffee farm today!
Ana Binuya | 2023
Who can resist the delightful aroma and flavor of coffee?
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